What is HEMA-Free Gel Polish?

Before diving into the comparison, let’s start by defining HEMA-free gel polish. HEMA, or Hydroxyethyl Methacrylate, is a chemical used in traditional gel nail polishes to help them bond to the nail. It’s effective, no doubt, but it’s also known to cause allergic reactions in some people, particularly with frequent use. Over the past few years, more and more brands have started offering HEMA-free formulas, which don’t use this ingredient.

Why Are People Switching to HEMA-Free Gel Polish?

A few years ago, I had a regular client, Sarah, who had been coming in for gel manicures for months without any issues. But one day, she came in and said her nails had been itching and feeling sore after her last appointment. After a bit of digging, we realized she was developing a sensitivity to HEMA-based gel polish. It was a real turning point for me, and I started researching more about HEMA-free gel polishes—and wow, they really are a game-changer for clients with sensitivities.

HEMA-free gel polish offers a safer alternative, especially for those prone to skin irritation. But it’s not just about avoiding allergies—it’s also about overall nail health, which I’ll dive into a bit later.

What Is Regular Gel Polish?

Now, let’s talk about regular gel polish—the tried and true favorite of many nail professionals. Regular gel polish typically contains HEMA along with other ingredients that help with adhesion and durability. It’s loved for its long-lasting power and sleek, shiny finish. I mean, when you think of gel polish, this is probably what comes to mind: the classic formula that can last 2-3 weeks without chipping or fading.

The Pros of Regular Gel Polish

• Durability: Regular gel polish is known for its crazy staying power. It’s perfect for clients who need a long-lasting, chip-free finish.
• Variety: There’s a huge range of colors, finishes, and brands to choose from, making it easy to satisfy every client’s preferences.

But as with anything, it’s not perfect.

The Cons of Regular Gel Polish

• Allergic Reactions: Some people are sensitive to HEMA and other chemicals used in traditional gel polish. This can lead to redness, itching, or even more serious reactions.
• Damage to Nails: Over time, regular gel polish can weaken natural nails, especially if the removal process isn’t done carefully.

The Big Question: Is HEMA-Free Gel Polish More Durable?

This is a big one. One of the primary concerns clients often have when trying something new is whether the product is just as durable as what they’re used to. HEMA-free gel polish may not have the same bonding power as regular gel polish (since it doesn’t contain HEMA), which leads some to think it might chip or peel more easily.

But here’s the thing: I’ve been using HEMA-free gels in my salon for a while now, and I’ve seen great results. They do last, just maybe not quite as long as traditional gel polishes. I’ve found that, while the initial application is smooth and shiny, clients with particularly active lifestyles might see their nails start to show signs of wear a little sooner than they would with regular gel.

That being said, HEMA-free gels can last a solid 2 weeks with proper care. And for clients who are particularly sensitive, the trade-off is often worth it. Durability isn’t everything—comfort and safety matter too.